Saturday, September 17, 2011

The Big City

Discovering you're a country hick is never fun.

Arriving in Kuala Lumpur on Friday, my first thought was, gosh, look at that - they've got trains. Then I mentally smacked myself, and boarded the express train to the centre of town, where I gaped at the existence of internet-connected tourist information booths. A taxi drove me through buildings taller than three storeys, and past beautiful old mosques. And I stared.

My first action at the hotel was to ask where the mall was, having some shopping that needed to be done (apparently in Kota Kinabalu, file dividers simply do not exist, and shop assistants repeat my words like I'm a crazy person. "File divisions?" "No, dividers." "Divisiers? You mean a document folder?" "No, I mean a divider, and if I meant a folder, I would have picked up one of those pretty folders on prominent display behind you.") The man at the desk suggested 6 malls, all within walking distance, and offered to call a taxi to take me to several more. I blushed and walked across the road to the Pavilion, Asia's Premier Luxury Mall, and owner of the Tallest Liuli Crystal Fountain in Malaysia, as endorsed by the Malaysia Guinness Book of Records. Truly. I'm not about to admit that I don't know what a Liuli Crystal Fountain is, because the look on my face already marks me as the hick I am.

The mall is about 50 floors high and probably covers more floorspace than the whole of Kota Kinabalu, and it has a Japan Street, which has a two-floor shop devoted to plastic cameras, and authentic Japanese street food stalls. There are two art galleries, and one hundred and seven restaurants and cafes. Four of those are Starbucks. Actually, I think it might have been three, but I got lost and passed one of them twice. There are two car dealerships - Bentley and Jaguar.

I'm overwhelmed, and not least because I've just seen two women dressed in black sacks with a mesh covering their eyes buying sexy lingerie. 

I get lost.

Then I find the Nando's in the basement, and everything becomes alright again - and it's even okay that the waiters say "Yebo!" with a thick Malaysian accent, because Oliver Mtukudzi is playing on the stereo, and the vegetarian burger tastes of home...

Monday, September 12, 2011

Through the windscreen

I drove down to Kota Kinabalu today. It's a two-hour drive, and is one of the best things about living in the mountains - it's a stunning drive to town, with a different view round every corner. On good days, you can see the sea from the mountains, and the blue of the sky draws the green out of the land and makes everything a shade of turquoise. On good days, Mount Kinabalu hides around each bend, playing peekaboo, and looming above the roads and villages.

Today was a good day down, and a bad day up. 

A bad day is, well, it's bad for driving, because the twisty pretzel of a road becomes even more dangerous when you can't see for the rain, but the views are just as beautiful as on a good day. On a "bad" day, the blue mountains haul themselves up out of duvets of white cloud and drifting mists. On top of each ridge, the rain clears and the greenness of the forest is even greener for the wet. 


Then you descend a little, and suddenly you hit a bank of mist, and for a kilometre all you can see is the brake lights of the car directly in front of you.


Just before sunset, I was around 2000 metres high when the air around me cleared and I had a spectacular view of thunderstorms in the distance.


It rains a lot in Borneo - pretty much every day, and it's the dry season right now. We get around 4 metres of rain a year, which is a lot of rain, especially for someone who comes from a country with an average annual rainfall of 80cm. But lots of rain means lots of rainbows - double rainbows, triple rainbows, circular rainbows, rainbows that finish in your backyard... It goes a long way to making up for those four metres.


Saturday, September 10, 2011

The Lower Kinabatangan

Perhaps the most eye-catching thing about the jungle in north-east Sabah is how little of it is left to catch the eye. On the three-hour drive east from Ranau, the commonest view is one of the oil palm, twenty-year-old dark green hulks, pale and tender babies, a spiky carpet from roadside to horizon. Palm oil is the difference between squalor and wealth for many families - from a single hectare, harvesting twice a month, a farmer can make RM2000 a month with ease, in a region where the average wage - if you're lucky enough to have a paid job - is around RM500. It's easier to condemn the palm oil industry when it doesn't mean the difference for you between bare subsistence and an education for your child.

However. Most of these plantations belong to Big Business, not Little Farmer. They replaced primary jungle with a non-native weed. The palms are a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes, and malaria and dengue fever are on the rise. Pygmy elephants, unable to cross the fenced and guarded plantations, are trapped in small pockets of forest. The birds are badly affected - in primary Bornean jungle, you'll find more than 220 species; in secondary forest after cultivation that drops to around 60. Palm oil plantations support ten. Just ten.

Palm oil is in everything you use, from shampoo to lipstick to cooking oil. For the sake of my view, which is far better when it's of jungle, please check the label next time you shop, and buy the product that doesn't contain death and destruction!

Besides, if your lipstick's got palm oil in it, then your beauty regime is killing orangutans, and orangutans are quite simply the most touching creatures I have ever had the privilege to meet.


They're being poisoned, starved, maimed and orphaned in large numbers by the plantations, but if they're lucky, they'll be found and taken home by the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre. I wasn't originally going to go to the Centre - I'd had visions of a cramped zoo. But what it actually is is 43 sq km of forest, and a team of amazing, loving, foresighted people, who gently coax traumatised orangutans back into an independent life in the forest. Starting in the orphanage, the babies and young adults are fed daily at a series of feeding stations, each one deeper into the forest, each one serving smaller amounts, encouraging the orangutans to forage for the rest of their meals. So far, every orangutan has become independent - some are never seen again, some return now and then, to show off a new baby or say hello to a ranger.


Part of the Centre's income derives from Feeding Station A, which is open to the public. You watch from a separate platform as a ranger brings milk and fruit to a platform in the trees, but the orangutans have little care for the separation, and as I was standing there, a young male came swinging onto the boards, loping so close to me I could have cuddled him.

After the sanctuary, we set off on a 90-minute drive south, to a jetty on the Kinabatangan River, the second-longest river in Malaysia, and one of the best-protected reserves - not that you'd think so to look at it. Even here greed has won over thoughtfulness, and in between ten pockets of secondary growth forest, the palm oil plantations are huge. In some places they start right on the riverbank, but there's positive news - the WWF has wrested back control of a 100-metre corridor between each forest pocket, and in most places has ripped out the palms and replanted indigenous trees, allowing wildlife to move more easily. The farmers are not happy, but they've mostly submitted.

At the jetty, I and my co-travellers board a speedboat to travel 45 minutes upriver to "Uncle Tan's Wildlife Camp."


The website and other travellers have warned that it's the roughest camp on the river, that there's no luxury, that it's extremely basic - in short, that it's no 5-star hotel. But I find it far above my expectations. Yes, the accommodation is a mattress under a mosquito net, and you share a cabin with five other people. There's no bathroom as such, and you wash from buckets of river water in the open air. On the other hand, the buildings are wooden and on stilts; beneath them is moss and water, turtles, fish and monitor lizards, and above is the forest canopy, filled with birds. There's a big eating area with a staff cooperative that sells cold beer (there's no electricity except for a few hours in the evening, but they've got ice). And everything's spotlessly clean, which is a little short of a miracle in Sabah.

And it's beautiful and quiet, and on my first night a spotted civet pauses in its prowl less than a metre from me, watches me for a minute, and then silently slips into the forest.

The guys who work here are passionate about conservation and the forest, and knowledgeable. One is studying birdlife, another patrols the nearest corridor in his free time to make sure farmers are staying away. It's all a world away from the Hyatt, my first experience of Borneo, and all the better for it. We're lucky enough to see four orangutans in the wild, and hornbills, and an owl during his nighttime fishing. Eagles glide overhead, and down on the forest floor, we get to see tiny frogs, and chameleons, and what the ranger insists on calling a trilobite - it certainly looks like the fossils, but aren't trilobites extinct? This place is pretty prehistoric - I wouldn't put a live trilobite past it!


I could have done with a few more days, but had to make do with the two nights of boat rides and jungle trekking on offer, before getting back to the village for work...